Pasta alla carbonara – hvor kommer det fra og hvad betyder det? Nej det var ikke mester kokken (“chef” på fransk, capocuoco på italiensk) Mario Carbone, som lagde navn til.
Some connect it to pasta cacio e uova, a Neapolitan dish of pasta tossed with melted lard, beaten raw eggs, and cheese, as documented in Ippolito Cavalcanti’s 1839 Neapolitan cookbook. Because the name comes from the word carbonaro, “coal burner,” some believe the dish was created as a hearty easy-to-make meal by men working outdoors for long periods. Others trace it to the Allied liberation of Rome in 1944, with American GIs bringing their daily ration of eggs and bacon to local restaurants to add to the limited Italian menu. Supporting this story is the first written reference to the dish in newspaper La Stampa in 1950, describing it as a dish prized by American servicemen. Shortly after, carbonara also appears in Elizabeth David’s classic 1954 book Italian Food.
Den forklaring finder man elaboreret i en anden artikel, som nævner en capocuoco fra Bologna – men historien med de allierede soldaters rationer går igen her (se til allersidst):
Pasta Carbonara – Who invented it?
[…] But there’s another version of the history of this popular dish, that seems to be the most accurate. Apparently, it was Renato Gualandi, a chef from Bologna who, history teaches us now, invented pasta alla Carbonara. When I heard this story I was astonished, as I had never heard of him, even though he was – I have now learned – one of the most influential chefs and restaurant owners of post-war Italy.
And yes: apparently Renato Gualandi invented carbonara, guys!
Renato Gualandi: more than pasta Carbonara
Born in 1921, Renato Gualandi started early to work as a delivery boy for one of Bologna’s best-known butchers. In 1932, he was an assistant at a local deli shop, Palmirani. Aged 18, he won his first culinary prize in Catania, Sicily. Towards the end of the Second World War, he cooked both in Bologna, at Baglioni’s, and Imola, at the Albergo Grand’Italia: it was in this period, Gualandi says, that he created Carbonara.
In 1952, he opened his own restaurant in Bologna, the legendary 3G. Gualandi’s approach to food was quite innovative for a time when culinary trends were largely dictated by the kitchens of Europe’s most famous five-star hotels. He ditched novel ingredients and complex flavors to return to the simplicity and authenticity of the dishes of his land, Emilia Romagna, and of Bologna in particular. He certainly had a lot to take inspiration from, considering the culinary patrimony of the region.
In 1959, his restaurant could sit 150 and by the time it closed, 12 years later, there were 7 “sfogline” (women who rolled pasta and pasta dough by hand) working in its kitchens. Very popular was also the 3G deli, annexed to the front section of the restaurant: with its large spit always going, this was where the bolognese went to pick up Gualandi’s creations to bring home.
[…]
it was Gualandi himself to tell how carbonara came to be. It was 1944 and Italy was still torn by the war. In those months, Gualandi had been working in Riccione, a seaside town on the Riviera Romagnola, today is known for its beaches and nightlife. When Riccione was freed, the Allied decided to celebrate with a banquet: Gualandi was put in charge of it.
There were quite some names attending, among them Harold Mac Millan, at the time in charge of the British forces, stanced in the Mediterranean (who was to become Prime Minister 13 years later) and UK generals Harold Alexander and Sir Oliver Leese. With such guests, and for such an occasion, Gualandi had to put together something tasty, but only with what was available in town, mostly army rations of dried foods and a little meat.
Gualandi admitted he wanted to create something new, that could bring together Italian and Anglo-Saxon cuisine; with a bit of help from Slovenian culinary tradition (he said to have been inspired by a soup popular in Isdria, called “spikrofi”), he concocted a sauce for spaghetti made of bacon, cream, processed cheese, and dried egg yolk, topped with a sprinkle of freshly ground pepper.
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To eat a nice bright green pasta you don’t necessarily have to use pesto, you can also prepare this simple spinach-based sauce.
Pasta with spinach sauce can also be a great way to introduce children to vegetables.
Ingredients
40 g. almonds
1 clove of garlic
2 salted anchovies
600 g. spinach
6 spoons of extra virgin olive oil
Salt to taste.
Spinach sauce – Salsa agli spinaci
Preparation
Soak the almonds in hot water for about ten minutes and peel them.
Pound them well in the mortar adding a few tablespoons of water or blend them with a food processor.
Clean and wash the spinach, cook them in a pot without adding water. [without adding water?]
Pour the oil into a pan, add the desalted and boned anchovies, put on the heat and let them melt.
Add the spinach, the crushed garlic and salt to taste, cook for five minutes.
Blend everything with the food processor, put it back in the pan, add the previously prepared almond paste and thicken over low heat, stirring, until it reaches the right density.
Season the pasta with this sauce plus a handful of grated Parmesan and complete with a drizzle of raw oil.
Det er blot nogle opskrifter på forskellige måder at udnytte spinat. Opskrifterne bruger frisk spinat, men det har man jo ikke lige for tiden; til gengæld har vi frost-spinat, som er en af de bedste ressourcer om vinteren. Vitaminer og mineraler, ikke sandt? Man skal lige huske noget med oxalsyre, men ellers?
Jeg kan ærligt talt ikke lide mad fra andre køkkener end mig eget, nåhjo, der var også lige min mors, men hun er jo ikke i køkkenet mere; – og Charlottes, og en gang imellem friske sprøde frites fra Byens Pizzeria …
Popeye – Skipper Skræk! – han var da sund, ikke?
Spinach noodles: dressing with sauce
Peel and wash the spinach, drain them carefully and place them in a saucepan with the broth and the chopped onion. Cover the pan and cook for about 25 minutes, then remove the saucepan from the heat, let it all cool down, then transfer the mixture into the mixer bowl.
Add the grated Parmesan, 2 anchovy fillets, drained from the conservation oil, a generous grind of pepper and blend until you obtain a sauce with a creamy and homogeneous consistency. Bring plenty of water to the boil in a saucepan, add salt and boil the tagliatelle. Drain them al dente and dress them with the prepared sauce.
Distribute the preparation on plates, decorate each portion with an anchovy fillet drained from the conservation oil and serve immediately piping hot.
Salsa is the Spanish word for “sauce”, and it has also come to mean the same thing in English. However, this iconic condiment, which can consist of vegetables, fruit, herbs, spices, and even grains, and which can range from mild and tangy to searing hot, is much more than a simple topping.
There are numerous categories of salsa, some uncooked (salsa cruda) and some cooked.
Salsa verde is “green salsa”, which is typically made from pureed tomatillos, green chilies, and cilantro.
Salsa roja or “red salsa” usually includes cooked red tomatoes, onions, and chili peppers.
Pico de gallo is a popular form of uncooked salsa made from lime juice and coarsely chopped raw ingredients including tomatoes, onions, and cilantro leaves.
Common salsas sold in U.S. grocery stores most closely resemble salsa cruda or pico de gallo, although in many cases they have been cooked to increase their shelf life.
Salsa is a prime example of the significant evolution of food trends over the past two decades. In that time, salsa has leapt into prominence not only in supermarkets and restaurants, but in ordinary cuisine. Salsa has long since surpassed ketchup as the number one condiment in the U.S., and demand only continues to grow. This increase in popularity is due in part to the various immigrant groups that continue to flow into the United States, combined with a heightened awareness of the culinary and health benefits of salsa. Salsas are usually low in fat, and the vegetables, fruits, and spices which comprise them are healthy and fresh. Additionally, enhancing flavor with spices and herbs rather than fats is an appealing technique in today’s health-conscious food arena. From a culinary standpoint, salsa can add zip and spark to many dishes, yet it is incredibly simple to prepare and has endless variations.
Flavors
Unlike in other sauces, salsa’s flavors are not meant to blend completely; instead, each one should complement the others while retaining its individuality. Composing a salsa involves juggling a multitude of tastes, colors, and textures for a balanced result where each ingredient can stand out on its own without overpowering the others. Depending on the tastes desired, different ingredients can be incorporated to create a balanced set of flavors.
Det var ikke iskoldt, men vind og kulde er nok ikke det bedste for mig, så jeg gik ikke på stranden, men inde i skoven, hvor jeg undrer mig over at man har vindstille, læ, – trods at der er god plads mellem træerne. Der er selvfølgelig masser af susen i trætoppene.
Som bevis for at jeg gik op ad trappen her måtte jeg ofre mig og tage en selfie, der som sædvanlig ser skræmmende ud. Sådan vil jeg helst ikke huskes, så jeg må finde et andet billede engang i nærmeste fremtid … Måske er jeg en meget god fotograf, for jeg synes faktisk at jeg kan fremhæve andre folks fornemste vinkler og egenskaber? Nå det … må jeg nok også hellere vise i nærmeste fremtid.
Hjemme igen lavede jeg mad, er det egentlig mærkeligt at jeg gider det? Det tog max ¾. Igår fik den lille familie gulerodssuppe, fasan-ruller og blomme-spidskål salat, så der var noget at leve op til.
Bliver man ikke mere mæt af hjemmelavet mad?
Spinaten ville jeg egentlig gerne have var lidt mere tyndtflydende, som en sauce (det er bouillon med hakket spinat, fra dybfrost), og man blander den i risene når man spiser og det smager himmelsk.
Hvad kalder man sådan en smagstilsætning af samme konsistens som tomatketchup?
Hvor stor er Danmarks befolkning i dag – små 6 mio. Da jeg var teenager sagde man 4 mio. og jeg har slået op, lige efter WW2 var vi måske “kun” 3 mio og lidt mere.
Min lille by, Vejby, er også vokset, men moderat: de sidste grunde er bebygget, en stor æblehave er bebygget med ca 10 rækkehuse, nogle grunde er delt og nye huse bygget, ved stationen er det gamle ranger-terræn bebygget; en vinduesfabrik er lukket og ombygget til lejligheder ligesom den gamle stationsbygning. Men det er i Helsinge at de virkelige udvidelser er sket. For 37 år siden lå der et fundament langs vejen fra Helsinge til Rågeleje, men byggeriet lå hen i flere år inden der blev bygget, så kom pludselig flere huse omkring det sted, Birkely hedder det nu, med 119 boliger, og lidt længere væk Haragergård, samme, og NU kommer så endelig Ammendrup mod Annisse Nord og Troldebakkerne ved Laugø på ca 70 hektar, der færdigbygget vil indeholde omkring 700 nye boliger.
Der er løgplanter og grønsagerDer er tomater, salat, alle slags grøntsager – og frugt udenfor billedetDet fantastisk ved dette billede er at det er taget om vinteren på en dag, hvor det havde været frostvejr — men vi kan købe grønt og frugt i vores lokale butik
—
Den lille Købmand i Vejby 1986 havde med angst lånt nogle millioner til at køre forretning, og fik i løbet af et par år så stor omsætning at de kunne bygge nyt og det blev bedre og bedre – i 1990 omsætning 10 mio, og så videre.
Den nuværende Rema er arbejdsplads for 2-3 fastansatte og 6-10 løstansatte, unge mennesker, som tjener lidt ekstra. Men det er en solid forretning – der er publikum nok nu, for i udseende og sortiment kan den konkurrere med “storbyens” og derfor køber landliggere og sommerhus-ejere ind her sammen med de lokale, der ikke har råd til så meget.
Hvor mange mennesker er der i de små byer i Vestjylland? Hvad er demografien her? Er det virkelig nærheden af København, som er skyld i at Rema i Vejby kører som en god forretning?
Kan man gøre noget for at de små landsbyer, hvor Coop helst vil lukke, blomstrer op igen?
Det var Lis, som havde åndsnærværelse nok til at tage en serie billeder, og det er jeg glad for.
Erik & Malte, Ulla og Erik, Dion, Donald i køkkenet (der var ikke meget at lave, Lis havde lavet mad til mine gæster hjemmefra), og til sidst Ulla, Erik, Charlotte.
Er det ikke væsentligt at man kan samle den lille familie, den del, som ses med jævne mellemrum? Min søn Malte, mor Charlotte, min bror, RUC social-psykologi, hans partner Dion, musiklærer Ulla …
Men ikke mindst Lis, som kom med mad og godt humør. Jeg kan ikke pinpointe nøjagtigt hvad der skete, som var godt, men et menneske med sans for hvordan man behandler andre ordentligt, – det tror jeg ærligt talt var det, som gjorde at det, som min bror somme tider kalder “spændinger”, ikke var noget problem.
Her er billeder fra Louisiana udstilling “Det Kolde Øje” af et køkken, som skulle være rationelt. Jeg synes det er større end køkkenet i mit barndomshjem. Udstillingen viser hvordan identitet og personlighed nedtones til fordel for rationel udnyttelse af de forhånden værende ressourcer.
Billede 2-3 er fotografier fra et rigtigt køkken, sådan som det har set ud dengang i 1920’erne. Resten af billederne er jo mine fotos af et replica-køkken opsat til udstillingen, nøjagtig mage til det virkeligt anvendte køkken fra 1920.
Men det undrer mig at udstillingen ikke lagde mere vægt på den hyperinflation, som en vanvittig regering forårsagede i Tyskland. Det er klart, at synet på mennesket og design og indretning af hjemmene har formet generationerne fra mellemkrigstiden, men fattigdommen efter WW1 var så voldsomt et element at det burde gå med i beretningen om hvorfor man tænkte, som man gjorde. Jeg slog bagefter op i Wikipedia:
ADN-ZB
Deutschland
In der Geldauflieferungsstelle der Reichsbank in Berlin.
(Aufnahme: Oktober 1923)
6823
Hyperinflation affected the German Papiermark, the currency of the Weimar Republic, between 1921 and 1923, primarily in 1923. It caused considerable internal political instability in the country, the occupation of the Ruhr by France and Belgium, and misery for the general populace.
Bagefter besøgte vi en hyggelig pizza-restaurant, Divina i Espergærde, og sønnen betalte! Det var en helt anden stil-oplevelse.
Flere dage har jeg været så travl at der ikke blev gået tur før henad kl.18. Men hvor er det dejligt alligevel.
Her er et lille udpluk af billeder fra den tur, hvor vægten ligger på at jeg opdagede en Ferguson traktor, en rigtig grå Ferguson, som jo er en maskine, der ændrede landbruget dengang jeg var barn.
Jeg husker stadig en tur ca. 1975 til Odense, hvor jeg sad sammen med en mand, der havde været kusk og som fortalte at det var et godt erhverv i trediverne (det var kun 40 år siden dengang! så det var da han var en mand på 30-40 år). Jeg spurgte ham, om det kunne passe at jeg havde set en mand med hesteplov ved Korsør 20 år før (tidlige 50’ere) – et syn som slog mig, fordi det var så smukt, men også fremmed, og dengang havde jeg ikke set 500-kroneseddelen, der kaldtes en plovmand fordi der var et billede af en mand, der pløjede med plov.
I dag hørte jeg så at opfindelsen af ploven var begyndelsen til undertrykkelse af kvinderne, som ikke var stærke nok til at håndtere en heste- eller oxe-plov, og derfor måtte “hjem” og passe husholdningen. Så skulle man jo tro at kvinden i Traktor-Alderen var kommet ovenpå igen?
Men hvis man i 1930’erne kunne styre et oxeforspand, så var der altid arbejde, fortalte han. Det var mest godser og større landbrug, som havde brug for sådan en mand, og han fortalte hvor han havde arbejdet. Desværre var det kun de sidste minutter, vi fik gang i snaken.
Men man skal altså huske, at der var krise efter Wall-street krakket; i 1933 og de følgende år var arbejdsløsheden i København skyhøj, og det samme gjaldt på landet.) Det lærte vi dog lidt om i skolen.
Jeg husker også at vi i geografi havde nogle billeder af “afvandringen fra landbruget”; men det var altså ikke levendegjort med noget, vi selv kunne iagttage.
Denne Ferguson traktor har som produkt en spændende historie; strengt taget kunne man jo godt bygge traktorer i 1930’erne, selv om det var dyrere produkter dengang.
På et andet billede ser man huse, som er fra 1950’erne, og de er på 50 m², for hvis man byggede disse små parcelhuse, kunne man få støtte. Dermed håbede Socialdemokraterne at boligmassen kunne forbedres.
The Ferguson TE20 is an agricultural tractor designed by Harry Ferguson. By far his most successful design, it was manufactured from 1946 until 1956, and was commonly known as the Little Grey Fergie. It marked a major advance in tractor design, distinguished by lightweight, small size, manoeuvrability and versatility. The TE20 popularised Harry Ferguson’s invention of the hydraulicthree-point hitch system around the world, and the system quickly became an international standard for tractors of all makes and sizes that has remained to this day. The tractor played a large part in introducing widespread mechanised agriculture.
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